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Wednesday, December 06, 2006

Krishna's Janmabhoomi

I expected to be harassed more by touts at a place as important to Hindus as this, but there was only one persistent boy trying to be our guide. The security, however, was another matter entirely.

The government of India had obviously taken the possible repercussions of the Ram Janmabhoomi (birthplace) incident in Ayodhya (read more here) to heart. Police armed with semi-automatic machine guns donning bullet-proof vests guarded the entrance to the complex. Almost-rough patdowns on every visitor weren't enough apparently. The guard stuck his hands INTO my pockets to make sure there really was nothing there - which almost pulled my pants down in front of everyone... Armed guards inside the area guarded the entry and exit to the temple and the Janmabhoomi itself. It's a bit strange to have an armed sentry say "Jay Shree Krishna" after patting you down, but honestly, I say better safe than sorry.

The Mandir itself, however, was filled with a spiritual air. Built by the Birla family, it housed the incredibly beautiful murtis of Radha and Krishna (similar in style to the Laxmi-Narayan murtis in the Birla Mandir in Delhi), and the air was filled with the sounds of prayers, chants, and devotional songs being sung loudly by a large group of devotees sitting in the middle. The ceiling was one giant fresco and told the Krishna Lila (divine life-story). The pujaris gave prasad to anyone and everyone (I can't imagine how much they give out over the course of the day!). So far I'm two-for-two for great experiences in Krishna's mandirs.

Off to the side of the mandir was the actual Janmabhoomi sthan. We didn't know what to do with our shoes, so my dad stayed behind with the shoes while my mom and I went inside. My dad followed us about a minute later - the armed sentry said he's watch the shoes for us since darshan was closing soon.

I never really understood what the big deal was about the Ram Janmabhoomi or the reason for the security at this Krishna Janmabhoomi. But just seeing that small slab of stone silenced everyone that walked into the small room. Everyone silently contemplated the same thing - that on that small chunk of granite, at one time the floor of a small jail cell that held Vasudev and Devaki, the Lord Himself had taken birth to relieve man of his sins and grant him redemption.

I don't expect you to understand even the concept of that feeling until you've felt it yourself - the weight behind the importance of a place so holy that it silenced every thought in my mind and filled it with reverence and prayer. Perhaps you do. But I suspect if the very birthplace of Jesus, Buddha, or Mohammed was ever found, and a serious believer visited it, he'd know what I'm talking about.

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